October 29, 2025

Hotel Analeia Balcony

Yesterday we had breakfast on the roof, overlooking all of Masouri, the Grande Grotto, and Telendos. We ate cheese, Fage greek yogurt, granola, peanut butter toast, coffee, and bottled water. The water here is safe to drink but tastes so salty that you can’t – I can barely brush my teeth with it!

We drove in our cute little care around the Masouri loop road to park at the base of Trois Îlots climbing sector. We’ve been using the Vertical Life app to find and track our climbs, as well as the Rockfax book. We climbed some long routes, using all of our 80 meter rope in the process. The goats with bells on their necks added to the atmosphere, as well as the hoards of German climbers! There are so many climbs that there is always something to get on, but it does get crowded.

After climbing all day, we had a really good pita wrap (I had haloumi, J had chicken souvlaki) on the Mirties beach and then had a golden hour sea swim – it was pretty perfect. We came back to the hotel and showered and then did our passeggiata about town – shopping, trying on clothes, and going to the Fatolitis Snack Bar, a groovy climbers’ hangout. I had a really good juice with agave called a “Cicada,” Jordan had ouzo, and we ate gyro and greek salad. Delicious. We were pooped but I stayed up late anyway reading Piranesi by Susanna Clarke.

This morning we slept in a touch, had rooftop breakfast, and went to a new climbing sector near Arginonta called White Spirit. It was above a lovely grove of olive trees, had nearby sheep, the constant braying of a donkey, and many roosters crowing. It was also in the shade all day, which was a relief even if the weather as been mild. Jordan really pushed grades and made a go on a burly 7a. I led a 5a and 5b and followed up to a 6a+ (with one fall). I’m definitely less scared than I once was leading, and having multiple pairs of shoes has been a game changer, as they all hurt differently.

We drove up the island a bit, stopping to hang out with more goats on a hillside. The entire hill smelled exactly like goat cheese (in a good way).

Now we are lounging on our deck, Jordan has a Mythos beer, and we’re watching the sunset over Telendos.